A walk through Borough Market beside London Bridge: its halls and lanes, cheese and hot food, 1,000 years of history and how to avoid the Saturday crush.

Fortnum & Mason has been trading on Piccadilly since 1707. You can walk in off the street with no appointment, wander several floors of food hall and leave having spent nothing at all, and plenty of people do. Here is what to look at while you are there: the chocolate counter, the spiral staircase, the Duke Street stairs and the four-tonne clock on the shop front.

A Greek Revival church of 1825, deconsecrated and left at risk for decades, now four levels of food and drink — chequerboard nave, stained glass over the bar, wine cellar in the crypt.